Rutabaga noodles?


If you seek a delicious intersection between gluten-free and pasta, you may want to learn about the rutabaga! Zucchini noodles and spaghetti squash are common compromises, but as it turns out, rutabaga may be even better. Here’s an excerpt from an article in the New Yorker Magazine by Helen Rosner (https://www.newyorker.com/culture/kitchen-notes/what-rutabaga-does-better-than-anyone-else):

 

 

Baxtrom {chef at Olmsted, a restaurant in Brooklyn} discovered that rutabaga is the solution to all these problems; it’s lower in starch than the usual vegetable-noodle suspects and is thus less prone to textural collapse. He further shores up the ribbons’ structural integrity by blanching them in unsalted water (salt contributes to the breakdown of the vegetables’ cellular structure). He then finishes the softened strips in a beurre blanc, which, thanks to the alchemical magic of emulsification, isn’t repelled by the water clinging to the noodles but magnetically adheres to it instead. The dish, which is silky and luxe, with an elegantly layered mirepoix, calls on an expensive Japanese gadget called a vegetable sheeter to cut the rutabaga noodles. To replicate it at home, I used a mandoline, and made up for the lack of restaurant finesse (or truffles) with loads of black pepper and cheese, ending up with something that nods to cacio e pepe. You could make the dish with turnips, but the noodles would be too small, and the flavor would be too spicy. You could make it with carrots, but it would be too sweet. You could make it with zucchini, but it would fall apart on your fork. Rutabaga, this time, is the best vegetable of all.

Be careful if you use a mandolin!!!!! It’s a great tool, but I’ve sliced off many a layer of skin with mine… consider buying a “cut resistant safety glove” to protect yourself.

If you make rutabaga noodles, please let me know how it goes!

Image by jeanneg @ MorgueFile.com.

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Time limit is exhausted. Please reload the CAPTCHA.